In late March, I got a message from a good friend that he had won the lottery for a June 9th launch on the Middle Fork of the Salmon River in Idaho (MFS).
In early June, Idaho received heavy rains and reports of epic adventures were coming from Idaho...Flood stage is 7 feet on the MFS and the river peaked just below 9 feet. On June 7th Andy, Eric and I departed for Idaho with a fully loaded Subaru and hopes that flows would drop to around 5 feet for our launch.
We made it to Georgetown, Idaho and found great camping just off the highway.
In Soda Springs, Idaho, we watched a man-made geyser erupt and had a great breakfast.
On our drive to Stanley, Idaho, we learned that Andy's brother and nephews were dropping off the trip due to high water. I got nominated as the new permit holder and was able to pick up a cancellation permit. Our group dropped from 13 to 9.
Stanley, Idaho is a small town and a jumping off point for excellent fishing, hiking, rafting, etc. The scenery is spectacular.
Rains in Idaho began to abate by our June 9th launch. Flows had dropped, but the weather was cold and drizzly.
At about 1PM we had our ducks in a row and were ready to launch from the Boundary Creek Ranger Station on the MFS at 6.88 feet.
Rafts were rigged to flip. Less than a mile from put-in we flipped a raft at Murph's Hole, temporarily lost an oar and the gravity of high water MFS set in on the group. The guidebook was barely a help at high flows. Class IV rapids were completely washed out wave trains, while Class II rapids sported enormous Class IV holes. The first 25 miles of the MFS are high gradient and plenty of action. An example of a the Class II at high flows:
View upstream while looking for the lost oar:
After successful runs of Velvet Falls, we pulled into Fire Island camp for the first night. The camp was spacious, but difficult to eddy out at due to abundant driftwood (36-inch diameter trees lining the bank). A short hike upstream lead to the Sheepeater Hotsprings and welcome relaxation after a nervy day on the river.
Ample river booty was found, including a hand washing station, a groover seat in a nice ammo box and two coffee mugs. These items were no doubt lost by parties that had recently floated the MFS at flood. The Ammo box containing the groover seat was perched about six feet above the water level in a log jam.
The second day on the river was less eventful. We broke a few oar blades and lost an oar when a reactionary wave broke over a raft, breaking the 1-inch cam straps holding the frame to the raft and securing the extra oar. Pistol Creek Rapid was mostly washed out and ran smoothly. Here's another party running Pistol.
During the float, there was evidence of recent flooding everywhere, including this recently blown out creek:
We passed the Indian Creek Airfield on Day 2 and chatted with the young ranger on duty.
Eric hanging out on the river:
Night 2 was at Pungo Camp, a spacious spot with large trees, a short hike to a fluorite mine and brave scarlet tannengers.
There's nothing like camping at the edge of the river:
At this point in the trip, the decision to bring my tiny playboat style kayak instead of a large, stable river runner weighed on my mind. The rapids were large, pushy and unpredictable. I was working hard to stay upright and not finding many good surfing opportunities.
We woke up to rain and snow line about 700 feet above camp on Day 3. The crew was excited to get on the river and knock out 22 river miles to Big Loon Camp and Hot Springs. Along the way, we warmed our feet in the springs at the Middle Fork Lodge.
Below Indian Creek the water mellowed consiterably, but we were moving at an average speed of about 10 mph.
Bob posing at a stop along the way:
We pulled into Big Loon at 2 PM after just about 2 hours of river time. The sun broke through the clouds and spirits were high. The Big Loon camp is located at the confluence of Loon Creek and the MFS, a beautiful spot.
The nine-person crew worked great together to setup the kitchen within a half hour of arriving at camp. What a team!
With the sun out, we hiked to Loon Hot Springs through fields of wild flowers.
Loon Hot Springs were the perfect temperature and had awesome scenery. Note the orchid overhanging the corner of the pool.
Ferris Bueller at Loon Hot Springs:
There was not a cloud in the sky on Day 4 for our float to Little Pine Camp for layover.
We got on the river at noon from Big Loon ready for another 22 mile day on the river. As TL, I wrote out a cribsheet each day before getting on the river which summarized the guidebook description of major rapids and camp location. The system worked pretty well and I'd glance at the cribsheet to check whether to lead the crew center, left or right on each rapid.
Tappan Falls and the new Tappan Rapid below Tappan Falls were the big excitement for the day. Water had come down to the 5-foot level and we had smooth runs of all the rapids. Unfortunately, the runout to the rapids were to violent for me to get photos of rafts running through, so here are a few more flat water scenery shots from Day 4:
We stopped by the Flying B Ranch for lunch and Bob treated everyone to ice cream. What a guy!
Again, we only needed 2.5 hours on the river to make 22 miles. The final 4 miles to Little Pine Camp were rock and roll 8-foot wave trains. Super fun boating! Some of the flat water approaching camp:
Little Pine Camp from Johnson's Point:
On layover Day 5 we hiked Johnson's Point and did some world class trundling. Johnson's Point offers views to the Main Salmon Canyon downstream and Flying B Ranch upstream. A wonderful hike through ponderosa pines and wildflowers.
We built a cairn at the Johnson's Point summit which was visible from camp 1300 vertical feet below:
Our camp was overrun with butterflies. A magical spot!
Fishing was great at camp, but the catch and release policy kept the native redsides off the menu.
Weather remained sunny and warm on Day 6 when we floated down to our final camp at Ship Island.
There was continued evidence of recent debris flows from many of the small drainages.
Ship Island was a beautiful camp tucked against the canyon wall with a small side stream nearby and a second stream across the MFS.
Papoose Creek:
View of the MFS canyon from Papoose Creek canyon:
Cliff wall across from Ship Island Camp:
Hawk flying above the canyon walls across from camp.
Rainy weather returned for our final day on the river. We had an uneventful run of Rubber and Hancock Rapids and the numerous smaller rapids. Steve, trip kitchen manager, did an amazing job of getting camp set up each day. Here's Steve at the confluence with the Main Salmon.
When we arrived at the Cache Bar takeout, we found that one car didn't make the trip. Andy's Subaru once again became the beast of burden:
After some shuffling between Salmon, Challis and Stanley, we made the return trip to Denver under rainy skies:
A few parting thoughts on the MFS:
At hight water, this trip is serious business and an experienced crew is needed. Rig to flip, drysuit required, run rapids in an organized fashion. Scouting at high water is difficult due to the lack of eddies. Everything is read and run, typically on the inside bank of the curves.
We had food for 13 in a group of 9 and ate nearly every bite. MFS burns some serious calories.
For spring trips, choose campsites on the east side of the river in hope of late-day sun to dry clothes and tents.
A July low water trip on the MFS would be a much more relaxed affair and would offer amazing fishing opportunities.
It is tempting to do a pre-permit season trip on the MFS to take additional time to explore all the amazing side hikes in the canyon.
